Sushi Otaku

At times, the most minor difference can make a tremendous impact; something that may not seem obvious but leaves a tip of the tongue realization. A new restaurant has opened near me and has grown on me quite a bit, but it is easy to know why. It is a seemingly small difference, however it shows that the itamae has an understanding of sushi that is often lacking in many sushi-ya. A good sushi restaurant is made not just by the freshness or the fish, or the value of the offerings, but also the little things that illustrate the care and understanding of those who provide your meal.

Sushi has always been about more than how fresh the fish is, how it is presented, the attentiveness of the wait staff, etc. But often people miss out on the actual creation of the food items. I’m obsessed with food and tend to be nosy. I am not at all uncomfortable wandering over to the itamae to watch the food preparation and discuss technique. I stare, I study, and I ponder (and silently critique). But I’m friendly and at least so far, no one has shooed me away. One particular thing I have noticed is the preparation of maki (cut rolls). A smart restaurant will do it’s best to reduce waste without sacrificing quality. For this reason, it is a very common practice at Japanese restaurants to prepare blocks of maguro (tuna) for sushi and sashimi, and they scrape and chop the trimmings for use in certain rolls. No one really notices that this is the cast offs and remainders that are being used as they are often mixed with spicy mayonnaise or panko (crunchy Japanese bread crumbs) and rolled up. It makes sense to not waste the meat, and I do not begrudge anyone for doing this.

Here comes the “but.” For me, food is about more than taste and presentation. Food is also about texture. I enjoy the feel of different food items, and when I eat a roll, I enjoy the feel of the meat in the roll. I eat a fair quantity of hamachi (yellowtail). Hamachi maki finds its way onto my plate at almost every sushi meal, and more often that not, it has been macerated prior to inclusion in the roll. To me, it becomes one big mushy pile, no matter how nice it may taste. I greatly value the practice of cutting a piece of hamachi and leaving it intact in the roll, which provides definition and a sense of variety while I eat. There are times when I specifically ask the itamae to leave the fish whole in a roll, it is that important to me (ok, I’m more than just a wasabi snob). Without this contrast, I do not find maki nearly as interesting.

While I believe the practice of including the trimmings in rolls should continue, as it reduces waste, I appreciate the itamae who takes the extra step and realizes that the texture of the meal is as important as quality and presentation. With many sushi chefs having less and less formal training these days, I feel that this perspective is becoming lost. Sushi is more than food, it is art. It is not black and white photography; it is full color, vibrant and nuanced. I do not walk in to a Japanese restaurant and start issuing commands, I am a polite diner, and while I may make my wishes gently known, I can appreciate when a chef has the presence of mind to understand the importance of his work. It is a very small gesture, but one with great ramifications. At least, great ramifications for me.

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku

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Sushi has been a popular item in the west for a few decades now and as with anything that makes its way across cultures, it has readily changed to better match western palates. But unlike noodles and soybeans, sushi has not merely changed to fit our preferences; it has begun to shape how we view our foods in the west as well. Recently, I have seen what I believe to be the pinnacle of intrusion, the actual supplanting of traditional western food culture with an Eastern import, in an unlikely place. And due to this, sushi has become more than, or perhaps less than, just sushi, and I am not yet sure what this might mean. Allow me to elaborate…

I was at an Italian restaurant the other evening with friends, a rather upscale establishment started by a well-known celebrity chef (since New York needs more of these restaurants). Looking for great seafood and not having eaten there yet, it was a perfect choice to meet, and we were all eager to try it out. The menu was enticing, varied, and upon reflection, strange. The appetizer list had a section of raw fish, some ceviche style, and some purely raw, but some of the items were not listed by their Italian names (what I expected) nor their English names (what I also would have expected), but by their Japanese names. I ended up ordering hamachi sashimi in a somewhat upscale Italian restaurant, and it became one of many sushi items I had that evening. The fish was not sliced in the same manner as sushi would be, nor was it the same cut (portion) of the fish that is normally used to make sushi/sashimi. It was also not served in the manner of sushi or sashimi. Yet it was labeled as such. It was quite tasty, but I cannot fathom why they would list it as hamachi instead of yellowtail. It seemed odd to find an item referred to in the third party language without context in an Italian restaurant.

When Italian restaurants list items under their Japanese names, and sushi is available at 7-11 stores, I start to wonder what has changed. While there is certainly no rule that sushi and sashimi must remain in a Japanese restaurant, and that the terms be restricted to such use, it seems more than out of place to find such a dish, and the use of the terminology, in such surprising places. When something has become so pervasive that it can no longer be separated from its counterparts, I question one’s ability to define it. It dilutes the brand, and shows how pervasive it has become that it has jumped from exotic, to mainstream, and then possibly to boring. That said, there is nothing uninspiring about a lengthy and adventurous dinner at Sushi Yasuda in New York, yet still, perhaps, when a once exotic food has so ingrained itself in another culture it becomes something different entirely. Something that only in name retains its roots. What that thing is though is to me uncertain as becomes easy to lose the qualities that make it exotic fare.

We need the great traditional Japanese restaurants such as Sushi Yasuda, and the impressive sushi works of Nobu to keep the art and evolution of good sushi and sashimi ever present in our cultural palate. We need reminders that what to westerners is exotic fare can evolve and remain such, and hopefully there will be no need to lament what sushi has become. Some foods and cultures mix exceptionally well, such as the infusion of French culinary culture into traditional Vietnamese cooking. But a melange can only go so far before it leaves the realm of fusion and becomes pedestrian. My final feeling that we have reached the point of no return will be when I see, in the glass window next to the garish clown, a poster for the new McMaki with cheese.

Meshi agare!
Warren
The sushi guy

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I responded to a private email a few days ago from someone who was somewhat new to the sushi game but was interested in items beyond the standard ‘California roll.’ They were wondering how to expand their horizons and it got me to thinking that I might like to highlight some of the more interesting items that I like, or have liked in various sushi-ya over the years. Whether or not you may enjoy these items is a matter of personal taste, but I’m suggesting them because, while many of you out there routinely eat all of these items, there are probably some of you out there who may not have had the opportunity to try them. Of course what may beinteresting to one person may be boring or standard to another (not that sushi can ever be boring). However I thought it might make a nice “what to try” list for those of you are interested in expanding your horizons but may not have thought about what else there may be available. I aim to comment on items that westerners may not normally think about as sushi, or simply may not have had the opportunity to encounter as such. If you are already a sushi connoisseur, read no further. If you are new to the game, or merely interested in hearing about some items you may have never tried before, read on.

Fatty Tuna (Toro [toh-roh])
Available in various grades as the cuts go up the quality (and price) scale, this is the fatty cut of the Tuna belly. One may find toro, chu-toto, and o-toro available, so named as the fat content of the cut increases. Toro has a buttery consistency, and the delicate tuna flavour is enhanced by the fattiness of the piece, perhaps the richest overall types of neta available. It may be expensive, but it is worth at least a try.

Scallop (Hotate-Gai [hoh-tah-teh-gah-ee])
Raw scallop is always a treat. It is very tender and surprisingly sweet with a creamy texture. Only one other item (Uni) represents such a pure and simple taste the sea. While I prefer scallop as nigiri-zushi or sashimi, the subtle flavour holds up surprisingly well in a “spicy scallop roll” that they offer at my favorite sushi-ya. I would heartily recommend trying scallop, as the mouth feel of the item is as important to the overall experience as the taste, something often I feel is overlooked in many dishes.

Monkfish Liver (Ankimo [ahn-kee-moh])
The fois gras of the seafood world, ankimo is literally the liver of the Monkfish that has been cleaned, poached or steamed with sake, and then chilled. It is usually sliced into discs and served either by itself (sashimi) or with ponzu sauce. As with fois gras, the liver is very rich and surprisingly complex, without the gameyness (is that a word?) of a terrestrial animal liver. It is a seasonal item, usually found only in the winter and early spring, however can be found in places that may store it frozen, which can reduce its quality. If I could eat this with a baguette every day I would.

Deep fried shrimp heads (Ebi no atama [eh-bee noh ah-tah-mah])
Yes, you heard me right, deep-fried shrimp heads. What do you think they do with all the heads of the shrimp they serve? These are very flavorful and the shells are actually good for you (mmm, chitin). Due to the heat of the fryer, they also become quite edible. Think shrimp plus. I eat them like popcorn as I wait for my meal to arrive. I understand that the eyes (which get hard), may be a turn off for some however if you can get past them (or the antennae) they are a fun, flavorful, and nutritious munchie if your sushi-ya offers them. I’ve never seen them on a menu since they are not a common item, but just ask if they are available. Some places may also ask you if you would like the heads fried after you finish you meal of shrimp.

Abalone (Awabi [ah-wah-bee])
Not a commonly found item, abalone is often underappreciated due to its rubbery texture. Like many mollusks, its flavour is subtle, and is best appreciated on its own as sashimi. The itamae will (hopefully) score it as a means of tenderizing the flesh and it actually has a nice crunchiness similar to fluke fin (if you’ve ever tried that) and is a nice deviation from the normal soft neta. This one is an adventure for the texture alone.

Squid (Ika [ee-kah])
As sushi or sashimi the squid’s body is eaten raw and the tentacles are usually served parboiled then grilled or toasted. Ika has a yielding crunchiness with a slightly creamy texture that I feel is almost as though it starts to dissolve in the mouth upon entry. I prefer ika as sashimi with just a drop of shoyu, and this item is about as simple as they get. The lack of complex flavours actually serves to enhance the enjoyment of ika, in my opinion, as one can truly appreciate the unique qualities that the texture and the simple taste offer.

Sea Urchin (Uni [oo-nee])
Uni is truly a unique food. Redolent of the sea, rich and fecund, I haven’t found anything else that is such a love it or hate it kind of food. The way it falls apart in one’s mouth both attracts some and turns others off. Its robust and earthy flavor contrasts its “hint of the ocean” quality without getting in the way. This is absolutely best when still alive and scooped right out of the urchin’s body, but that is almost impossible to find.

Flying Fish Roe (Tobiko (toh-bee-koh) with Quail Egg (Uzura no tamago [oo-zoo-rah no tah-mah-goh])
This is often my “dessert.” Tobiko eaten sushi style with a raw quail egg cracked over the top is a great way to end a meal. I often order two and try to force whoever I am dining with to try the other (but I can’t get my wife to try it *sigh*). I usually end up eating both. The roe is crunchy and salty while the quail egg adds fat and sweetness that rounds the item. You might be picking tobiko out of your teeth for a while afterwards, but this unusual combination is a grand pairing of foods that everyone should experience (except pregnant women, those with immune disorders, and anyone else who shouldn’t or doesn’t want to).

Fermented Soybeans (Natto [naht-toh])
Gluey and slimy, natto is not something that many westerners would ever come across outside of a sushi-ya. Definitely an acquired taste, natto can be described as nutty, cheesy, and there are even some ‘mild’ versions available now for those of you who may not like the intensity of the dish. It is often eaten over rice, sometimes with condiments (name it and someone will put it in), but at North American sushi-ya it is often served simply in a bowl with rice. This is an item with which to test your friends.

Real Wasabi (wah-sah-bee)
I’m not going to call this “Japanese Horseradish” because it’s not. It’s not even related to horseradish (and actually more closely related to cabbage than anything else), and the lump one usually gets in a restaurant is, in fact, American horseradish with food coloring. *Real* wasabi has a hotness that does not linger, and compliments and enhances the flavor of sushi rather well. It offers a subtle vegetal quality missing in the “other stuff” as well. It has also been shown to have antibacterial properties, perhaps owing to its use for centuries alongside such dishes as raw fish. The real stuff is expensive (as opposed to the green colored horseradish that is free), but a different beast and is worth a try if available.

Specials
Always ask about the specials when you go out, one never knows what may be available that is new and interesting.

Those are some of the items that I really enjoy and might not have every time I go out for sushi, but they are a part of my rotation depending on their seasonality and my mood. There are plenty of other interesting items often available and I encourage any readers to chime in with anything that I may not have mentioned but is still worth mentioning.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

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There are certain fish that I think present themselves perfectly without being fancified, hamachi (yellowtail) being one of them. I went to my favorite local sushi place on Saturday night with my wife and my brother, who loves sushi, but is not nearly as crazy about as I, and ordered a huge platter with all our staples. The discussion du soir was the hamachi. My brother likes it in a maki with scallions, whereas I prefer it sushi or sashimi . It’s not that there was any problem ordering, but I was just wondering how much he really could appreciate the fish that way.

Don’t get me wrong, I know everyone has different preferences, and there is no one way to serve anything, but I always feel that the reason I eat what I eat is to really appreciate the fish. The taste. The texture. The mouthfeel and the lingering flavours. There is nothing wrong with pairing the yellowtail with scallions in a roll, in fact, the scallion (or green onion) does a good job complimenting the fish, but I just can’t help being a purist with this one particular fish.

It’s my favorite piece. Hamachi has a buttery flavor that I cannot find in the finest otoro, and a texture that rivals it as well. A good piece yields gently to the tongue, and has a subtle taste that is unique and familiar at the same time. Unfettered with additional flavors, hamachi is the purest example of why sushi is such a unique food; it is something special and something to tell your friends about. Hamachi is clean, consistent, and defined, and never interferes with it’s friends on your plate. It carries it’s own bags and makes the bed when it leaves.

I had my hamachi sashimi and he had his hamachi maki , and we were both happy at the end of the meal. The Gekkikan Black & Gold sake may have helped that, but I prefer to think it was the company I’m not trying to be an evangelist, merely share my opinions, but I would suggest that anyone try hamachi sashimi or sushi at least once, if you are used to having it maki style with scallions. There really are no comparisons to this gentle and robust neta.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

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