Sushi Otaku

At times, the most minor difference can make a tremendous impact; something that may not seem obvious but leaves a tip of the tongue realization. A new restaurant has opened near me and has grown on me quite a bit, but it is easy to know why. It is a seemingly small difference, however it shows that the itamae has an understanding of sushi that is often lacking in many sushi-ya. A good sushi restaurant is made not just by the freshness or the fish, or the value of the offerings, but also the little things that illustrate the care and understanding of those who provide your meal.

Sushi has always been about more than how fresh the fish is, how it is presented, the attentiveness of the wait staff, etc. But often people miss out on the actual creation of the food items. I’m obsessed with food and tend to be nosy. I am not at all uncomfortable wandering over to the itamae to watch the food preparation and discuss technique. I stare, I study, and I ponder (and silently critique). But I’m friendly and at least so far, no one has shooed me away. One particular thing I have noticed is the preparation of maki (cut rolls). A smart restaurant will do it’s best to reduce waste without sacrificing quality. For this reason, it is a very common practice at Japanese restaurants to prepare blocks of maguro (tuna) for sushi and sashimi, and they scrape and chop the trimmings for use in certain rolls. No one really notices that this is the cast offs and remainders that are being used as they are often mixed with spicy mayonnaise or panko (crunchy Japanese bread crumbs) and rolled up. It makes sense to not waste the meat, and I do not begrudge anyone for doing this.

Here comes the “but.” For me, food is about more than taste and presentation. Food is also about texture. I enjoy the feel of different food items, and when I eat a roll, I enjoy the feel of the meat in the roll. I eat a fair quantity of hamachi (yellowtail). Hamachi maki finds its way onto my plate at almost every sushi meal, and more often that not, it has been macerated prior to inclusion in the roll. To me, it becomes one big mushy pile, no matter how nice it may taste. I greatly value the practice of cutting a piece of hamachi and leaving it intact in the roll, which provides definition and a sense of variety while I eat. There are times when I specifically ask the itamae to leave the fish whole in a roll, it is that important to me (ok, I’m more than just a wasabi snob). Without this contrast, I do not find maki nearly as interesting.

While I believe the practice of including the trimmings in rolls should continue, as it reduces waste, I appreciate the itamae who takes the extra step and realizes that the texture of the meal is as important as quality and presentation. With many sushi chefs having less and less formal training these days, I feel that this perspective is becoming lost. Sushi is more than food, it is art. It is not black and white photography; it is full color, vibrant and nuanced. I do not walk in to a Japanese restaurant and start issuing commands, I am a polite diner, and while I may make my wishes gently known, I can appreciate when a chef has the presence of mind to understand the importance of his work. It is a very small gesture, but one with great ramifications. At least, great ramifications for me.

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku

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Sushi has been a popular item in the west for a few decades now and as with anything that makes its way across cultures, it has readily changed to better match western palates. But unlike noodles and soybeans, sushi has not merely changed to fit our preferences; it has begun to shape how we view our foods in the west as well. Recently, I have seen what I believe to be the pinnacle of intrusion, the actual supplanting of traditional western food culture with an Eastern import, in an unlikely place. And due to this, sushi has become more than, or perhaps less than, just sushi, and I am not yet sure what this might mean. Allow me to elaborate…

I was at an Italian restaurant the other evening with friends, a rather upscale establishment started by a well-known celebrity chef (since New York needs more of these restaurants). Looking for great seafood and not having eaten there yet, it was a perfect choice to meet, and we were all eager to try it out. The menu was enticing, varied, and upon reflection, strange. The appetizer list had a section of raw fish, some ceviche style, and some purely raw, but some of the items were not listed by their Italian names (what I expected) nor their English names (what I also would have expected), but by their Japanese names. I ended up ordering hamachi sashimi in a somewhat upscale Italian restaurant, and it became one of many sushi items I had that evening. The fish was not sliced in the same manner as sushi would be, nor was it the same cut (portion) of the fish that is normally used to make sushi/sashimi. It was also not served in the manner of sushi or sashimi. Yet it was labeled as such. It was quite tasty, but I cannot fathom why they would list it as hamachi instead of yellowtail. It seemed odd to find an item referred to in the third party language without context in an Italian restaurant.

When Italian restaurants list items under their Japanese names, and sushi is available at 7-11 stores, I start to wonder what has changed. While there is certainly no rule that sushi and sashimi must remain in a Japanese restaurant, and that the terms be restricted to such use, it seems more than out of place to find such a dish, and the use of the terminology, in such surprising places. When something has become so pervasive that it can no longer be separated from its counterparts, I question one’s ability to define it. It dilutes the brand, and shows how pervasive it has become that it has jumped from exotic, to mainstream, and then possibly to boring. That said, there is nothing uninspiring about a lengthy and adventurous dinner at Sushi Yasuda in New York, yet still, perhaps, when a once exotic food has so ingrained itself in another culture it becomes something different entirely. Something that only in name retains its roots. What that thing is though is to me uncertain as becomes easy to lose the qualities that make it exotic fare.

We need the great traditional Japanese restaurants such as Sushi Yasuda, and the impressive sushi works of Nobu to keep the art and evolution of good sushi and sashimi ever present in our cultural palate. We need reminders that what to westerners is exotic fare can evolve and remain such, and hopefully there will be no need to lament what sushi has become. Some foods and cultures mix exceptionally well, such as the infusion of French culinary culture into traditional Vietnamese cooking. But a melange can only go so far before it leaves the realm of fusion and becomes pedestrian. My final feeling that we have reached the point of no return will be when I see, in the glass window next to the garish clown, a poster for the new McMaki with cheese.

Meshi agare!
Warren
The sushi guy

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Firstly a warning to my readers, the following entry contains graphic descriptions of what may be considered animal cruelty by some, and may be a bit extreme for some readers. If you do not want to hear stories of the preparation of living sea animals for food, please do not read this entry. Caveat lector.

Many of you may have heard stories of sushi so fresh that it was still alive when it was served. I’ve seen live octopus, lobster sashimi and fish still moving, filleted on the plate. While some of these stories are true, I’m here to clarify some of these tales, debunk some, and provide some insight into some of the more unusual items found around the world on the menu.

The Living and the Dead

The first issue I’d like to address, and actually debunk, is the story of the living fish, served sashimi style or even partially cooked, yet still live, served for your pleasure (obviously not the fish’s). What brought this to mind is the following news story on the living deep fried fish, where the body has been deep fried and the head still trying to breathe on the platter when served. I have also seen fish propped up on the plate while its body has been filleted and served alongside it, the gills moving and the head seemingly still alive. But while those who serve these fish may want you to believe that the animal is still living, displaying its freshness, the truth is that while the remaining muscle may be still twitching, it is far from alive. Muscles continue to contract after death, longer in some animals than others. But a brain needs oxygen to be conscious (and alive) and without blood flowing through its veins, no animal remains alive. Deep frying half a fish, or filleting it while it is still alive fortunately kills the animal fairly quickly, contrary to the claims of the server.

Some crustaceans and mollusks on the other hand, are most certainly eaten live. Anyone who has eaten an oyster or clam on the half shell is eating a living animal. In fact, if it is dead, you wouldn’t want to eat it raw, there is too much risk of bacterial infection. But those are not the exciting stories you came for. It is not easy to find live food in North America. If you can find it, it’s usually not on the menu. But nevertheless, it can be found. But again, I use the term ‘live’ lightly

Lobster sashimi is often claimed to be served live. If you can find it, the tail is removed from the animal and quickly prepared sashimi style while the head is placed on ice and garnished… waving its antennae or claws at you in possible revenge? That’s the theory, at least. What really happens is that the lobster dies pretty quickly after having its tail severed from its thorax, and any movement you may see is just random neuronal firing from muscles being starved of oxygen. The creature’s brain (ganglia actually) has ceased to respond. You see, Lobsters have an open circulatory system, unlike the veins and arteries of non-crustaceans, and the pressure difference when the tail is removed is enough to stop any blood from washing headwards. That critter, as they say, is, by the time it gets to you, an ex-lobster.

One of the few non-mollusks that is actually served and eaten live is the shrimp. But it is not the shrimp that you are used to eating in a restaurant. ‘Drunken shrimp’ as it is called, is a special, smaller shrimp native to Southeast Asia and served in a bowl in some type of alcoholic beverage, be it sake, or the local equivalent. The shrimp become listless after sitting in the alcohol for a few minutes and they are taken out , pulled apart, and sucked out of their shell (not always an easy task, mind you). They are pretty close to dead at the point of consumption, but for those of you who want the excitement of live food, there you go. Every once in a while you may get a bowl that was prepared moments before, and you may have some ‘jumpers.’ I’m sure you can imagine what kind of a scene that is…

Another mollusk sometimes served live is the octopus. I have seen (but never eaten) a bowl of live octopodes being consumed, tentacles desperately clinging to the chewing orifice of the diner. It is not a pretty sight, and while I pride myself on eating anything, I can only imagine the suffering of the animal so I chose not to partake of that particular meal. It is more popular in Korea, however, than elsewhere, so good luck finding it in North America.

So the stories of live sushi are basically based on a few examples, more assumptions and a lot of stories. With the exception of the aforementioned mollusks and shrimp, pretty much anything served ‘live’ is not really living, just showing the vestiges of random nerve twitching found in any recently deceased animal. While certainly a testament to its freshness, the presentation of the body or the whole of the animal is certainly a sight to behold. Some stories are true, but many are just for show, entertainment for our eyes as well as our taste buds. Meshi agare.

Warren
The sushi guy

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I received this email a few moments ago and wanted to pass the information along to readers of this blog. While this is a generic competition in the sense that it is not specific to sushi, I can think of a ton of ways to serve tuna in it’s raw form (and perhaps I’ll be submitting a few of these myself).

“I would like to bring to your attention our 1st Albacore Tuna Recipe Competition which will be launched to the public on September 1, 2007. This, worldwide, competition is designed to bring attention and profile to the Albacore Tuna Fishery- especially the BC-Canadian Albacore Tuna Fishery which takes place off our Pacific Coast.

The Competition includes a number of categories including: Best Appetizer, Entree, International Recipe, Sandwich, and a special category for school children (Best Sandwich). In addition we have a category for Chef’s in training which carries a $1,000 scholarship prize. One other special category is a HEALTH CHECK Recipe- BC Albacore is a recognized product in the Health Check Program of the Heart and Stroke Foundation of Canada.

We invite everyone to develop and submit your favorite Albacore Tuna Recipe. There is no cost to enter the competition. Judges will consist of professional chefs of the BC Chef’s Association. And all categories carry cash prizes.

Currently our Website http://www.canadianalbacoretuna.com includes details for Sponsor/Sponsorship Opportunities but soon will have additional information for the greater public including rules and links for recipe submission. ”

In light of the overfishing of bluefin tuna stocks, it’s not a bad thing to highlight those fish that are not at risk. If you have any ideas, it certainly can’t hurt to send them off….

Meshi agare!
Warren
The sushi guy

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Japan is a fascinating country. Steeped in tradition, yet quick to adopt new technologies and trends, Japanese culture is an interesting melange of the old and the new. That said, while they took the transistor from its western inventors and changed the world, some things I’m hearing don’t sound like progress to me. If you read my previous entry about declining Bluefin tuna stocks threatening the future of sushi dining, you would know that the tuna situation is close to dire. Not willing to give up without a fight, inventive Japanese sushi chefs have come up with a new item… get ready…Venison sushi. Yes, you heard right, Deer sushi. If you don’t believe me, check out this article in the New York Times (free subscription required to view).

I’m a foodie and always eager to try new things. I eat insects, jellyfish, and I happen to love venison (mmmmm… jerky). I love steak tartar. But I have to say that I have no interest in trying this. It’s like Tofurky, one food should not be trying to masquerade as another, it should be appreciated for its own merits. Maguro, toro, o-toro, all these tuna sushi items are prized for the innate qualities that make them unique. This cannot be duplicated with a four legged critter, it is an entirely different kind of food. Personally, the last thing I want is to be eating my tai, suzuki, sake, and then but a piece of raw deer in my mouth. It just doesn’t fit. Without getting into the difference between fast-twitch and slow-twitch muscle tissue, suffice it to say that fish cannot be any further from deer, biologically speaking. While many don’t like to view their food as once thinking, I am just trying to point out that deer is not a pelagic beast and it can never replace one. It will have a different taste, and a different texture. I admire risk taking and adaptability, but some things just shouldn’t be. Maguro is not a rich, meaty food, and just because a piece of venison may somewhat, ever so slightly resemble a piece of maguro, it is not maguro and I think shouldn’t be used in its place.

There are many fish in the sea, if I may, and it is certainly a tragedy that our species feels the need to decimate other species for our own gain, but a simple hiatus on tuna fishing would help the situation greatly. We wouldn’t need to eat red meat to replace our tuna if we just took a break. A little while without toro won’t kill any of us.

The New York Times article concludes with a statement I never thought I would hear from a Japanese chef; “We can learn from American sushi chefs,” Mr. Yamagata said. Without Japanese culture being the way it is, sushi would never have achieved the artful grace unique to the dish. The last thing I want to see is a Big Mac Maki, and I’m sticking to my guns on this one.

Meshi Agare!
Warren
The Sushi Guy

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I’ve continuously gotten questions about the requirements that make any fish ’sushi grade.’ I’ve also always tried to find a good answer. But as it turns out, there isn’t one. By that I mean, in the United States, there are no FDA rules for what makes seafood ’sushi grade.’ Basically, there is no such thing. The only thing that seems to matter is the basic procedures that will ensure the destruction of parasites. There is no mention whatsoever of any category of food that can be considered sushi grade. This basically leaves the decision up to the supplier as to which cuts they determine are sushi grade. So caveat emptor, and I suggest reading my ‘What is Sushi Grade Seafood‘ section of The Sushi FAQ for more information about this particular grade, if you will, of fish.

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I’ve had a number of questions about omakase meals in a sushi restaurant and thought to take this time to explain what true omakase is to those unfamiliar with the term, or who just want to know more. Omakase literally means entrust and basically means “chef’s choice.” The Itamae (sushi chef) is given the opportunity to select what he will serve you for that meal, and since this commands a higher price usually than one would expect, the quality of the meal (food and presentation) and his attentiveness should make it worth your while. This is not your average meal, and it should leave you satisfied, still interested, and encouraged.

The first thing to realize is that there is omakase and there is Omakase. By that I mean in many areas, omakase has begun to become popular and the concept has become a diluted experience due to less experienced restaurants jumping on the bandwagon. True omakase should result in careful attention by the Itamae, a great selection of the freshest fish, seasonal items that you might not normally even encounter and a presentation far beyond what you would ever see just ordering a few pieces of sushi. You might be used to your yellowtail (hamachi) in a roll with scallions, or as sushi, but have you ever had it cubed and served with a raw quail egg and tobiko? I have seen plenty of omakase platters with new and interesting presentations, as well as unique combinations. However in some cases, where lesser understanding results in a lower quality experience, what you may end up with is a bunch of sushi items that someone else chose on a plate, perhaps still tasty, but is not that dissimilar to what you normally see in an average order. In bad sushi restaurants it could be a great way for the Itamae hand of items that he may want to be rid of. Stick to respectable places and you won’t have to worry about that. With true omakase, the Itamae should be attentive to you and not just hand you a plate and wander off. Traditional omakase is also not based on a particular budget, it can be a costly adventure but well worth it if the Itamae is highly skilled.

Some feel that it is best to not have omakase at a place where the Itamae does not know your likes and dislikes, however I feel that the true reason for omakase is to be able to experience the best items that are available at that time, and in that case, knowing you is irrelevant since it is more about what is best at that moment than what you like. If you only like California rolls and spicy tuna, omakase is something you might want to skip. However it is also a great way to discover new sushi items that you may have overlooked or never thought to try.

If you are new to omakase, you might want to keep in mind what to expect from your meal. You must be prepared to eat things that you may have never wanted to try or look like something you may never want to. Generally, it is not considered polite to leave food on your plate, but then again, no one is holding a gun to your head. On the other hand, it is not impolite to say to the Itamae something like “Omakase, please, but no mackerel.” You can choose to not have sashimi, no sushi, or both if you would like. Making requests is all part of the Itamae being attentive to you.

In general, it is best to order omakase at a restaurant that you know. Or one that is well known to serve excellent omakase. This serving style can be easily found, but to expect great omakase in a standard sushi place would be a mistake. It is easy to find good sushi, but omakase takes the experience to a whole new level. It takes years of experience, deep knowledge of the food, and devotion to creating the best meal for the customer that makes omakase great. Anything else is simply someone else’s order.

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I have touched on this topic before, but I was looking at my spider roll (soft shell crab) the other night and thought about just how incredible it was relative to my non-sushi meals. It got me thinking, as always, that it may not be a traditional sushi offering, but not only did it fit in well with the traditional sushi on my plate, but it just worked and was incredibly good. (To clarify, while crab (kani) is very common in Japanese cuisine, and even sushi (or maki-zushi), deep frying a soft shell crab and adding mayonnaise, cucumber, avocado, et al. is not a traditional Japanese sushi-ya offering).

In Japan, there are traditional sushi-ya and non-traditional sushi-ya. In North America, there a very few traditional sushi-ya (although some great ones, see my Sushi Yasuda blog entry to hear about one), and those that exist are not necessarily easy to identify. In fact, some of the most popular ones (e.g. Nobu in New York City) are not even remotely traditional. Not that that’s a bad thing. We North Americans don’t always know what is and is not traditional sushi-ya fare, and I’m not going to go through the list here. While there may be traditionalists out there who bemoan the development of “fusion” sushi cuisine and the changing landscape, there are many benefits to having it both ways. As I mentioned, that spider roll was a really incredible roll. And who can ignore the popularity of the “California roll?”

While I tend to shy away from the salmon and cream cheese rolls, I can readily appreciate the blend of flavours offered by the many new styles of sushi that appear in sushi-ya here in North America. I also respect the subtle classic offerings that are found in contemporary as well as traditionalist sushi-ya. It is not an unusual occurrence for a culture to adopt and adapt a cuisine (or technology, or anything else) over time, so I think we all should acknowledge the non-traditional sushi as we have accepted all new ideas over time. After all, without the adoption of fire one day long ago, we would all still be eating our food raw. Oh, Wait.

Warren
The Sushi Guy

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I pretty much always go to a pure sushi-ya when I’m going out to eat sushi. If sushi is their core competency, then I know I’m probably in for a good meal. There are, however, Japanese steakhouses (the places with all the fancy foodwork at the table) that also have a sushi bar somewhere on premises. And I can’t say that I’m a big fan of the concept.

The one benefit of a sushi bar in a steakhouse is that, often enough, its not particularly busy and you may get an attentive itamae (chef). And sometimes the food is good. There was one in particular near where I lived a few years ago that was actually quite good. It wasn’t my number one choice, but I always knew I could get in and sit at the bar if my usual places were too full. The itamae was nice and the sushi was good. But I think I was lucky. I don’t mean to disparage the sushi bars at steakhouses, but in my overall experience, they have been sub par. Again, it’s not something they focus on and they may not do the volume of business necessary to keep their items in peak condition. They may not have a particularly diverse selection of items. No specials, no seasonal items. They also may not be able to hire a top itamae.

For high quality sushi I look for a restaurant that specializes in sushi. I don’t want my experience to feel tacked on to another one. That said, you might get lucky at a steakhouse (I have), but you also may not (and I have not). Sushi is something special, even if you eat it frequently, and deserves to be treated as an art, not just a meal. It is best appreciated, instead of being ‘also available,’ lowering itself to merely a fad. I want my sushi to be more than adequate. I’m not convinced that the steakhouse sushi can be that. But if I’m not looking for sushi, I’ll definitely go to one for dinner and a show.

Warren
The Sushi Guy

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I love going out to a great sushi-ya and sitting down to a nice, appealing meal. Served properly, sushi is art as well as sustenance, and often each piece can take conversation in an interesting direction, even without the aid of sake. sushi offers insight into the skills of the itamae, and the individual who chose the particular fish for the restaurant. It also speaks wonders about the importance of ritual and presentation in eastern cultures.

So why does every market seem to sell sushi these days? Basically, it’s a fad. I don’t mean that in the pejorative sense, I’m actually happy it has caught on so well, but it really does smell of one. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve grabbed a salmon maki from Whole Foods for lunch, or a California roll on the way home to snack on before dinner (Shhhhhh! Don’t tell my wife). But if you think about it, the prevalence of sushi is a good thing. Regard about how it came to be.

Way, way back in history, sushi was a pre-prepared (and preserved) food. It was essentially raw fish that had been enclosed in rice and left under a rock in an anaerobic environment to “ferment.” After a predetermined period of time had elapsed, the fish was eaten (and I imagine was quite pungent) and the rice thrown away. Centuries later, vinegar was added to the rice (to enhance the preservative qualities) and eventually the rice was eaten as well when the “ferment” had finished. Eventually, the seasoned rice became the “bed” of nigiri-zushi and fresh raw fish was placed on top and the resulting product was sold from stalls for folks on the go. Not that long ago, it became restaurant food. *

Sushi is the ultimate fast food. The artisans who create each piece can whip out a roll in no time at all. It seems disrespectful to say that they can slap a piece of fish on a bed of rice before you can blink, But it’s true. And often it looks and tastes great. And what’s better, it is actually good for you. Give my body a choice of stopping by McDonald’s on the way home or snacking on a spicy tuna roll and I think you know which it would prefer. Sure, the roll is a bit more expensive than a burger, but we’re still only talking a few dollars so I don’t buy that argument. Sushi as a quick meal or snack is good for you; it’s as simple as that, unlike many other options. Sushi can be not so much “fast food” as “quick food.”

So what is sushi? To me, it can be quick snack or robust dining experience. Like anything, it has evolved, and evolved well. For me, the spread of sushi into more public outlets allows me the “quick fix” that I often crave. I still enjoy going out for a more elegant experience and to appreciate the presentation and skill of the itamae (and conversation with him/her if I’m sitting at the sushi bar). I see no reason why sushi can’t have it both ways, especially if you think that it was more casual fare for most of its history. With sushi, you can pack the mystique of the dish into a take-out container and still know you are eating something unique. As “fast food” it is not dumbed-down. Sushi stands up to the label and dashes it. So when I need a quick bite I’ll have my fish raw, please, and leave the fish and chips for someone else.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

* This is a brutally condensed version of the history of sushi and should be seen as such. It’s history is much more convoluted and interesting than this brief writing can convey.

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