Sushi Otaku

There has been much back and forth over the years about the safety of seafood due to the potential of mercury contamination as this heavy metal moves up the food chain. While the health benefits of eating seafood (and that means sushi) are already widely known, the actual risk that consumers take upon themselves has been argued for some time now. Recently, a report from the Institute of Medicine has concluded that the benefits of eating seafood far outweigh the potential risks. To pull a few points from the report (the full text being available here):

1. Women who are or may become pregnant or who are breast-feeding may benefit from eating seafood, especially those kinds which have relatively higher concentrations of EPA and DHA. A reasonable amount would be two 3-ounce servings per week, but they can safely consume up to 12 ounces per week. They can consume up to 6 ounces of white tuna — that is, albacore — weekly, and should avoid eating large predatory fish such as shark, swordfish, tilefish, and king mackerel.

2. Children ages 12 and under are given the same guidance as pregnant women, except that serving sizes should be age-appropriate.

3. Adolescent and adult males and women who will not become pregnant may reduce their risk for cardiovascular disease by eating seafood regularly — for example, two 3-ounce servings per week. Those who consume more than two servings per week should choose a variety of seafood to reduce risk for exposure to contaminants from a single source.

4. Adult men and females who are at risk of coronary heart disease may reduce that risk by consuming seafood regularly — for example, two 3-ounce servings per week. There may be additional benefits from including seafood selections high in EPA and DHA, although supporting evidence is limited.

There are critics, of course, and some of their points are valid (e.g. mercury is bad for you) but the one thing that I think folks can take away from this report is that seafood, like many other foods, is good for you in moderation. Rather than jump on the bandwagon as say “Oh No! Mercury! it might make sense to put the food in context with the rest of the world. There is mercury in the soil, in the ocean water, and just about everywhere else you can imagine, thanks to the industrial revolution. That is not to say ‘don’t worry about it’ but what is important is to understand that in order to avoid it, you would have to live in a bubble. But seafood (or sushi) will not be the straw that broke the camel’s back, so to speak. Obviously there is no need to seek out things that may be more harmful than good, but seafood in moderation (and that mean sushi!) is a valid part of a healthful diet, and there is no need to avoid it for fear of contamination.

If you eat sushi as much as I do, you may have something to worry about, but for your average sushi restaurant-goer, eating sushi is a good thing. For many reasons, I worry about a lot of things that will affect the quality and duration of my life, but eating sushi is not one of them. Hopefully many of you feel the same way. Meshi agari!

Warren
The sushi guy.

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I’ve had a number of questions about omakase meals in a sushi restaurant and thought to take this time to explain what true omakase is to those unfamiliar with the term, or who just want to know more. Omakase literally means entrust and basically means “chef’s choice.” The Itamae (sushi chef) is given the opportunity to select what he will serve you for that meal, and since this commands a higher price usually than one would expect, the quality of the meal (food and presentation) and his attentiveness should make it worth your while. This is not your average meal, and it should leave you satisfied, still interested, and encouraged.

The first thing to realize is that there is omakase and there is Omakase. By that I mean in many areas, omakase has begun to become popular and the concept has become a diluted experience due to less experienced restaurants jumping on the bandwagon. True omakase should result in careful attention by the Itamae, a great selection of the freshest fish, seasonal items that you might not normally even encounter and a presentation far beyond what you would ever see just ordering a few pieces of sushi. You might be used to your yellowtail (hamachi) in a roll with scallions, or as sushi, but have you ever had it cubed and served with a raw quail egg and tobiko? I have seen plenty of omakase platters with new and interesting presentations, as well as unique combinations. However in some cases, where lesser understanding results in a lower quality experience, what you may end up with is a bunch of sushi items that someone else chose on a plate, perhaps still tasty, but is not that dissimilar to what you normally see in an average order. In bad sushi restaurants it could be a great way for the Itamae hand of items that he may want to be rid of. Stick to respectable places and you won’t have to worry about that. With true omakase, the Itamae should be attentive to you and not just hand you a plate and wander off. Traditional omakase is also not based on a particular budget, it can be a costly adventure but well worth it if the Itamae is highly skilled.

Some feel that it is best to not have omakase at a place where the Itamae does not know your likes and dislikes, however I feel that the true reason for omakase is to be able to experience the best items that are available at that time, and in that case, knowing you is irrelevant since it is more about what is best at that moment than what you like. If you only like California rolls and spicy tuna, omakase is something you might want to skip. However it is also a great way to discover new sushi items that you may have overlooked or never thought to try.

If you are new to omakase, you might want to keep in mind what to expect from your meal. You must be prepared to eat things that you may have never wanted to try or look like something you may never want to. Generally, it is not considered polite to leave food on your plate, but then again, no one is holding a gun to your head. On the other hand, it is not impolite to say to the Itamae something like “Omakase, please, but no mackerel.” You can choose to not have sashimi, no sushi, or both if you would like. Making requests is all part of the Itamae being attentive to you.

In general, it is best to order omakase at a restaurant that you know. Or one that is well known to serve excellent omakase. This serving style can be easily found, but to expect great omakase in a standard sushi place would be a mistake. It is easy to find good sushi, but omakase takes the experience to a whole new level. It takes years of experience, deep knowledge of the food, and devotion to creating the best meal for the customer that makes omakase great. Anything else is simply someone else’s order.

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