Sushi Otaku

Well this is my second post that seems to have hit upon something because my traffic went up dramatically. But it raises an issue. About 80% of the incremental traffic came from one particular website where a link was posted, and I thought I’d address three issues that came up in that community (and some not too nice emails I have received). Many folks there were pretty nice when commenting on the link and appreciated that was not meant to be an end-all be-all definitive guide, just my observations. There were some outright hostile folks (where did that come from?) which was something that I don’t quite understand. I don’t want to name the site because I’d rather not give them any attention. But… To address what I feel was unwarranted (and some hostile) criticism:

1. The claim: I’m elitist.
I’ve never thought I was elitist, nor do I intend to be. I happen to have a fair amount of knowledge about the topic of sushi, and I want to share my opinions and what I have learned over the years. The use of proper terminology is useful, I think within the context of this blog. I also don’t feel it’s elitist to suggest that there may be a ‘proper’ way to eat sushi, at least when viewed traditionally, and I thought I was clear that I was not issuing an edict saying ‘you must do it this way.’ My goal is, again, to share my experience and knowledge, not to tell people what to do. See my blog as an item of interest or curiousity if nothing else.

2. The claim: I’m in it for the money.
I’m sorry to say that there is no money in what I’m doing. I’ve thrown a few ads up here and on SushiFAQ.com in the event that one day the pittance I receive might pay my bandwidth costs, but if you have ever seen the bids on sushi related keywords, you would find it underwhelming. In the seven months since I started Sushi Otaku I’ve gotten about 5 clicks on ads, each paying a few pennies. And I don’t make much more than that on SushiFAQ.com. I almost wish it were true that I’m just a greedy you-know-what, but if I were, I’d be writing about something with high paying keywords, not about sushi.

3. The claim: I’m dumb.
I’m not sure how to argue this one post my SAT scores? I acknowledge the obvious nature of some of my points in my “How to Find a Good Sushi Restaurant” piece. It was not meant to be an in-depth analysis of the situation, just a basic set of guidelines to think about. What else is a blog than the opinions of someone who thinks they know about something? It’s a blog, folks. Get over it and get angry about something that actually matters. Change the world (oh, but that would be too hard, let’s just make fun of a guy who writes about sushi).

There were also the standard “you’re a jerk” and other angry types of responses, but of course it’s never worth wasting the energy arguing those points since you can never change the minds of folks who fly off the cuff like that. Let them stew in their own unhappiness. I like constructive criticism. I like comments on my blog, and if I can make it more interesting or informative I ask everyone out there to tell me how I can do this. But most of all I’m just having fun and I hope entertaining a few of you out there who care about sushi. I really appreciate all of you who comment or just read and enjoy this blog. And to anyone who would rather disparage what I am doing, I ask that you perhaps just go do what you do best elsewhere. If you really want to know, I’m actually in it for the sushi.

Warren
The sushi guy.

1 Comment »

I didn’t intend this blog to turn into a bunch of “how to” posts, and I think my next post may be on how many pieces of hamachi can I fit into my mouth at once, but I did nevertheless feel that a good follow-up to my “How to Eat Sushi” would be how to find a good sushi-ya and how to determine it’s quality. I’m sure all of you have no problems determining if you like a place or not, but the goal of this entry to point out the specific things to look for in terms of food quality that make a sushi-ya stand out relative to it’s peers.

There are many good and many bad sushi places. Many, many bad sushi places. I’ve walked out of places before I was even seated, and I’ve also left food on my plate that wasn’t up to par (how rude, I know). There are details that I have noted over the years that have helped me identify whether or not I want to dine in a particular sushi-ya where I’ve never been, and I thought to share them with both of you who still read my blog. When traveling and in an unfamiliar city, I often seek out sushi and here are my tips to find a good place, and determine the quality of its offerings.

What to Look For:
At the risk of sounding politically incorrect, I have found that some of the best sushi places have a large Japanese clientele. A lack of Japanese diners is not necessarily indicative of a sub-par sushi-ya, but when I notice a large number of Japanese diners, it’s a big “thumbs up.”
Look for a line or a long wait. It sounds annoying, but it’s true. A particular sushi-ya in New York City that I love develops a line around the block starting about 5:30 pm. I’m not kidding, and the sushi there is superb. Sushi can be worth the wait.

Smell the air when you walk in. If it smells fishy (and not fresh) you might want to go get pizza. A mix of interesting smells can be expected, but if anything smells off, either something may have gone bad or perhaps they may not clean the place frequently or well enough.
Look at the fish presented in the sushi bar. It should look clean, fresh, well wrapped, and not all thrown together. If anything looks dry, old, or crusty, run for the nearest exit. When your neta has a leathery edge all you want to do is spit it out.

Is the itamae Japanese? If he is not, the sushi-ya may still have very good sushi, but my personal opinion is that one stands a better chance of finding a good trained/experienced sushi chef if they are Japanese. And while many other Asian countries have their versions of sushi, what we have come to expect in North America seems to be the uniquely Japanese style and presentation. If not “made in Japan” I’ll take “made by Japan.”

Does the sushi look slapped together? There is a particular sushi-ya near me where the presentation is just not right and whether directly or indirectly related, the sushi is only so-so. If the itamae doesn’t respect his presentation enough I would question how much respect he has for the quality.

Does the restaurant focus on sushi? If the sushi bar is an add-on, I tend to avoid it. There are exceptions but if sushi is not their first priority, I would rather go to a place where it is. Remember, the quality of the sushi is very dependant on the individual who chooses the fish at the wholesaler, and if their expertise is at the hibachi, I don’t want them choosing the food I’m going to eat raw.

I avoid fast food sushi places. There’s quality food and there’s fast food, and never the two shall meet. sushi had better be quality. I’ve touched on this in a previous piece, and there is definitely some good pre-made stuff, but if it’s on a conveyor belt, I won’t go near it.

What to Look For When Dining:
One way that is used to determine the skill of the itamae is to try the tamago yaki (a slightly sweet omelet). This is a delicate item that takes great skill to perfect. In Japan, potential customers often ask to try the tamago yaki to determine if the itamae is skilled enough, in their opinion, to be preparing sushi.

How does the rice taste? How does it feel? The rice should not be too soft nor too firm, and the balance of seasonings should be just right. If it’s too sweet or tastes of vinegar, they don’t know how to prepare it and I would question how well they prepare anything else. The rice is the foundation upon which sushi is built (and I’m using the term colloquially since technically ‘sushi‘ refers to the rice).

Inspect your nigiri-zushi. In a quality establishment the itamae will know the proper balance of fish to rice, and huge hunks of fish, while fun and yummy, can upset the balance. Remember, sushi is as much science as art, and if you have an experienced itamae, he will know how to serve you best.

Look for fresh wasabi. That lump of green putty you got is, in all likelihood, American horseradish with food colouring. A good sushi-ya will have the real stuff available for the asking, and often for a price. But it’s worth it, in my opinion, and it’s a different animal (so to speak).

Look for interesting seasonal items. This indicates that they pay attention to the particulars of the foods they offer, and seek out something when it is available and fresh. Ankimo (monkfish liver) is a classic example of this. It is a seasonal item that can be found off-season, but does not have the same taste and texture when it has been sitting in a freezer for months. The itamae at my favourite sushi-ya near me won’t serve it unless it is fresh, and because of this I know he cares about the quality of his food.

OK, that’s it. There is absolutely nothing else you need to know. Really… Nothing at all. Well, obviously there is more, but those were my observations that have yet to lead me astray in my search for outstanding sushi-ya in strange places. If I’ve overlooked anything, feel free to chime in on the comment page. Sushi is a magnificent dish when done right. Good sushi is nice, but great sushi is something to tell your friends about. It’s worth the effort to find the best, and if you can, take me with you.

Warren
The sushi guy.

15 Comments »

Well my last entry seemed to have hit upon something as the resulting number of visits was nothing short of overwhelming. I had a small, core audience reading my blog for a while now, but I can’t thank everyone enough for the support and suggestions that have come in over the last few days.

I love sushi. Obviously. Apparently there are a heck of a lot of you out there who do as well. I’m no guru, just someone who happens to obsess over the things he likes, but I hope that I can continue to shed enough light on the world of sushi to keep everyone interested and coming back. I’m afraid now that I’ve set the bar too high

I hope to have another entry out this weekend, but being a holiday weekend I can’t promise anything. Generally I try for one enter per week, more often if I’m inspired and less often if I’m busy (my RL job keeps me fairly tied down so I’m amazed I can write here at all). I will also try to keep the entries as interesting as I can, I never tire of talking about sushi, but I don’t want to start repeating myself. But I am a sushi otaku after all….

Thanks again everyone who read and especially commented either publicly or in private email. Hearing from you all is what makes this whole blog worthwhile. Let’s all raise a glass of sake and say ‘kampai’ to ourselves and our mutual enjoyment of the delightful food that is sushi.

Cheers,
Warren
The sushi guy.

4 Comments »

This article has been moved to the How to Eat Sushi page on The Sushi FAQ. Please follow the aforementioned link to an expanded version of this article.

16 Comments »

I have touched on this topic before, but I was looking at my spider roll (soft shell crab) the other night and thought about just how incredible it was relative to my non-sushi meals. It got me thinking, as always, that it may not be a traditional sushi offering, but not only did it fit in well with the traditional sushi on my plate, but it just worked and was incredibly good. (To clarify, while crab (kani) is very common in Japanese cuisine, and even sushi (or maki-zushi), deep frying a soft shell crab and adding mayonnaise, cucumber, avocado, et al. is not a traditional Japanese sushi-ya offering).

In Japan, there are traditional sushi-ya and non-traditional sushi-ya. In North America, there a very few traditional sushi-ya (although some great ones, see my Sushi Yasuda blog entry to hear about one), and those that exist are not necessarily easy to identify. In fact, some of the most popular ones (e.g. Nobu in New York City) are not even remotely traditional. Not that that’s a bad thing. We North Americans don’t always know what is and is not traditional sushi-ya fare, and I’m not going to go through the list here. While there may be traditionalists out there who bemoan the development of “fusion” sushi cuisine and the changing landscape, there are many benefits to having it both ways. As I mentioned, that spider roll was a really incredible roll. And who can ignore the popularity of the “California roll?”

While I tend to shy away from the salmon and cream cheese rolls, I can readily appreciate the blend of flavours offered by the many new styles of sushi that appear in sushi-ya here in North America. I also respect the subtle classic offerings that are found in contemporary as well as traditionalist sushi-ya. It is not an unusual occurrence for a culture to adopt and adapt a cuisine (or technology, or anything else) over time, so I think we all should acknowledge the non-traditional sushi as we have accepted all new ideas over time. After all, without the adoption of fire one day long ago, we would all still be eating our food raw. Oh, Wait.

Warren
The Sushi Guy

2 Comments »

I pretty much always go to a pure sushi-ya when I’m going out to eat sushi. If sushi is their core competency, then I know I’m probably in for a good meal. There are, however, Japanese steakhouses (the places with all the fancy foodwork at the table) that also have a sushi bar somewhere on premises. And I can’t say that I’m a big fan of the concept.

The one benefit of a sushi bar in a steakhouse is that, often enough, its not particularly busy and you may get an attentive itamae (chef). And sometimes the food is good. There was one in particular near where I lived a few years ago that was actually quite good. It wasn’t my number one choice, but I always knew I could get in and sit at the bar if my usual places were too full. The itamae was nice and the sushi was good. But I think I was lucky. I don’t mean to disparage the sushi bars at steakhouses, but in my overall experience, they have been sub par. Again, it’s not something they focus on and they may not do the volume of business necessary to keep their items in peak condition. They may not have a particularly diverse selection of items. No specials, no seasonal items. They also may not be able to hire a top itamae.

For high quality sushi I look for a restaurant that specializes in sushi. I don’t want my experience to feel tacked on to another one. That said, you might get lucky at a steakhouse (I have), but you also may not (and I have not). Sushi is something special, even if you eat it frequently, and deserves to be treated as an art, not just a meal. It is best appreciated, instead of being ‘also available,’ lowering itself to merely a fad. I want my sushi to be more than adequate. I’m not convinced that the steakhouse sushi can be that. But if I’m not looking for sushi, I’ll definitely go to one for dinner and a show.

Warren
The Sushi Guy

1 Comment »

Generally when we go out to eat we are friendly enough with the waiter (waitress) but don’t think too much about anything other than our food and companions. This is not a bad thing, however I feel that when you are enjoying such an exquisite meal as sushi, there are great advantages to making a new friend. The itamae (the Japanese name for a sushi (or other) chef and pronounced ita-meh-ee), politely addressed as itamae-san. One thing that many westerners do not know is that there are many sushi items that are seasonal, and others that are not normally on the menu but can be requested. By virtue of that, they almost become off limits to most people. I’ve also, at times, been steered away from items that are no longer at their peak of freshness. How’s that for service?

For years I went to a particular sushi-ya and sat in almost the same seat every time at the sushi bar. Over time, I got to know the itamae, Sato-san, quite well, and he got to know me. By being interested in what he was doing, why he selected the fish he did, and even buying him a beer now and then, we actually became good friends. I was at first surprised at how accessible and friendly he was, even though he was often quite busy. But sushi was his job, and sushi was becoming my life, so we hit it off.

Over time he introduced me to things I would not normally have encountered, nor even tried. Fried shrimp heads (actually quite good). Ankimo (monkfish liver). And fresh wasabi (the green horseradish-like rhizome that accompanies your sushi meal). For years I had eaten the horseradish and food colouring blob on my plate actually thinking it was wasabi. One day, he took a brownish-green gnarled object and grated it on a device covered in sharkskin. Real wasabi, and what a difference it made. And what an interesting technique. I would also sit down at the bar and he would often, without my asking, place a nice appetizer down for me to try, or something I’d never seen before. On the house. It was great.

By my being inquisitive and respectful of his art we developed a great relationship, and he educated me in the history and sources of many foods in which I was quickly developing a keen interest. I’d never heard of Bonito flakes, but talk about an interesting historical methodology (but that’s something for another blog entry). He was full of informational tidbits. If you’re into free stuff, it never hurts to befriend the itamae, but it really is so much more than that. There isn’t all that much to talk about regarding the food at an Italian or French restaurant that most folks don’t already know. But I’d be willing to bet that you can always learn something new at a sushi-ya. The itamae is your friend. You just don’t know it yet.

Warren
The Sushi Guy

3 Comments »