Sushi Otaku

All sushi in the US is flash frozen at some point in transit before it gets to your table, which I believe is a legal requirement. This is done to kill any dangerous parasites (such as Anisakis simplex) in the fish and protect consumers. I understand the policy, and won’t argue the safety point, but I will argue that it does something to the food that we consumers end up paying for. Well, not all of us, mind you, but there is an element out there that really savors the fish (like those audiophiles who claim to hear all sorts of things in music that the rest of us have no clue about) and there is no question in my mind that the quality is impaired by this process.

I can speak from experience. Years ago I was on a fishing boat with my cousin and, to make a long story short, he caught a large bluefin tuna. When we returned to shore that day the crew had already arranged for a group of Japanese men to meet us at the dock and offer a large sum of money to my cousin for the fish, which he took. What we also took was a large hunk of the fish that we ate then and there on the dock. This was not a chilled, previously frozen, perfectly cut and presented piece of neta, this was a hunk of maguro that was alive only a few hours ago. And it was great. The flesh was resilient and smooth, with slightly more texture than I was used to with standard maguro. I can’t say that it was night and day, because the differences were subtle, but to me, this was clearly not the maguro that was my usual fare. It made me wonder what else I should try right from the boat (although the only other fish I have tried raw and fresh was one I cannot remember the name, but I had the opportunity to catch on my sister’s research vessel in the Caribbean as she is a marine biologist).

Fresh sushi is something that anyone should try if they have the opportunity. I guess the risks of parasites are higher if you don’t treat the fish, but if you are willing to take that risk (and I sure am, and I eat oysters, clams and other critters raw all the time too) then do it. It’s like the Kobe beef vs. standard beef issue, if you can appreciate the difference then you deserve it, but if you are like my father, it’s probably just another piece of steak. I personally prefer the Kobe.

Happy New Year!
Warren
The Sushi guy.

2 Comments »

Well, holiday sushi only in the sense that we’re in the holiday season I guess… My birthday was December 24th and my wife had asked me what I wanted to do for dinner. It’s the night before Christmas and what we often do is have dinner at home with whatever family came into town and spend the rest of the evening putting together toys for the kids. There was only one thing I wanted… Sushi .

My folks were in town and they are, as I have mentioned, meat and potatoes people. They eat fish, but not raw. My brother the vegan won’t even eat anything that has a brain/ganglia or a face, as he puts it. My kids are only interested in playing with the food (and my daughter is too young for raw fish anyway), but they will eat edamame. But my aunt and uncle, who live one town over, are sushi eaters, so we had a small percentage of the crew who would eat if we got sushi.

We got sushi.

I gave fair warning and my folks got Chinese food. My brother always makes his own tofu or seitan or something (which is usually pretty good I must admit) and my kids got eggs, rice and veggies. I think it was a pretty boring spread of food, and when you put the sushi up against everything else, it makes you scratch your head and wonder how it got there. The sushi looked great, well presented on the plate (itamae made, my layout), a stark contrast to the bowls of greasy Chinese somethingorother and a dark mass of somethingelse I had to ask my brother the contents. Overall a strange spread. So I (and my wife and aunt) had a healthful dinner, with a clean and fresh feel to it, craft and quality while most of the crew got to have a bowl of grease and unidentifiable foods overly seasoned and full of MSG. For a Christmas eve/birthday dinner. And it was good. But my aunt left my birthday cannolis at home.

Warren
The Sushi guy.

No Comments »

My birthday is coming up in a few days and my wife asked me what I wanted to serve when my family comes over to celebrate. That’s easy… “Sushi .” Well, my family is pretty picky when it comes to food, which I can understand in my father’s case, but my mother, who ran a catering service for untold years, you would think, would have a more diverse interest in foods. I guess not. So, of the 12 or so folks who will be coming over, about 6 of them actually would eat sushi. So, we’re also getting some shrimp and they can have those and pretend.

I always knew that sushi wasn’t for everyone. Some folks are turned off by the rawness factor, some just because they don’t think they like the critter (ewww…. eel! I’ve been told). But one day I’d like to do a poll to see what it actually is that turns those people off. You eat tuna from a tin but you won’t eat it with rice? And it seems like some folks drown the piece in shoyu so they don’t have to taste anything. Weird. I understand the though of eating raw meat might be off-putting to some people, and I don’t think that’s weird, but I guess what I don’t understand is when someone simply refuses to at least give it a try. When I was younger, someone told me to try something three times and after the third time, I’ll either like the food or hate it. It worked with olives (which I love but used to dislike) and ever since then it has been my strategy (although these days I can’t think of any food that I don’t like, really).

I’m not disparaging people who don’t like sushi, I understand that not everyone likes everything, but just making the point that is this many people like it, it’s got to mean something. If you haven’t at least tried it, test out something simple, like maguro-maki (tuna roll) or even a cooked item like a shrimp tempura roll to get in the groove, so to speak. Remember.. Mikey didn’t really die from eating pop rocks and drinking coke, and as long you don’t go to a dive of a sushi-ya in a nasty part of town, neither will you.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

6 Comments »

This is the newest video that seems to be making the rounds, a quicktime video on the traditional sushi meal. It gets entertaining half way through and is good for a chuckle.

How To Eat Sushi (it may take a while to load, it’s 30 megs)

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

1 Comment »

Small Business - Green-Eyed Monster

This is an article I just came across in Fortune about wasabi (how timely). I really love that people in North America are getting to know this great plant, but for the life of me I can’t understand how someone who supposedly loves this product would then go ahead and turn it into a powder. The volatiles that make wasabi what it is are destroyed when the plant is turned to powder, so what you end up getting is something ’sort of like’ wasabi. I guess it’s better than horseradish, but still, I would always buy from the folks who sell the unpowdered form in NorthAm over this guy. Just my opinion…

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

No Comments »

How do you decide where to go? A colleague of mind has invited me to a dinner at one of two different sushi-yas in NYC and I’m in a quandary. They are both top rated, traditional restaurants and I’ve heard great things about both. The problem is that I have no frame of reference.

That may sound odd, but when it comes to sushi, it’s very particular and the differences are established by presentation, freshness, and creativity. These are not things that can be judged without having been there. It’s easy to arrive at a restaurant and say ‘Oh My God, I’m leaving’ (as I did when I saw a rat walk casually up to me in an Indian restaurant about 10 years ago). But when it looks good and sounds good, It’s impossible to tell the difference between two dedicated sushi joints without having the experience oneself.

When it comes to sushi, especially, what is ‘good’ is really determined by ones preferences. Some folks like uni and can judge excellent quality in a piece. To others, it’s a slimy goo (which is practically blasphemy, IMHO). The point is, I hear they are good restaurants, but will they satisfy this sushi otaku?

I think there’s only one way to find out. I’ll flip a coin, head on over and ask for the ‘omakase.’ There is no better way to test an itamae’s abilities and see what a restaurant can offer. Then, I’ll have to mosey on over to the other one (perhaps I’ll invite him) and do the same. then compare.

There is no other type of food that is so personal an experience than sushi. I love items that my wife won’t touch. Everyone has their favorites, and with the variety of flavors and textures that sushi offers, it’s not hard to find something you like. But finding something that you will mortgage your soul for (I can’t sell it outright) is truly a unique experience, and for some people, this is it. For others, it’s just a dinner. But the experience that a particular sushi restaurant offers is what makes this type of dining so very personal.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

2 Comments »

Wasabi is great with sushi, but is hard to come by. “What about the wasabi I have on my plate with my order” you may ask. Well, I hate to tell you, but usually it’s not actually wasabi. It’s American horseradish with flavorings and color added (look at the list of ingredients next time you see some in the store). Sorry to burst your bubble, but it’s true.
Real wasabi is expensive and hard to grow. It mostly comes from Japan, however a little bit is now being grown in the Pacific Northwest in The US. This rhizome grows in the rocky areas of brooks and streams and requires very specific conditions to grow. Because of this, it’s not easy to cultivate, and it’s not cheap to grow. So most Japanese restaurants aren’t going to throw a pile of it on your plate and see what happens.
Some high end (and even not so high end) restaurants actually have it available upon request (for an additional charge). My favorite place does. It often comes pre-prepared in a tube, but if you get lucky, you will find some freshly grated on a grater made from shark skin, the traditional method. And the freshly grated product is really night and day different from all else. It has a non-lingering intensity that actually enhances the fish without overpowering it (they say it also has anti-bacterial and anti-cancer properties but I’ve yet to see the studies). It’s potent but friendly and seamlessly blends with the piece in a well balanced preparation. There is no better compliment, in my opinion, to the subtle (or even not-so-subtle in some cases) dish that is sushi.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

No Comments »

I like sitting at the sushi bar at a restaurant. Tables are fine, but when I really want to get into things I sit at the bar. Omakase (chef’s choice) is much better when he is right in front of you, and even if you have your preferences, it’s always nice to watch it being made right in front of you and eating your hamachi moments after being cut. It’s also a great way to befriend the itamae.

When I started more regularly to sushi restaurants, there was one in particular that I would go to with my extended family. We went somewhat regularly, and were fortunate to always be seated at the bar. We got to know the itamae, Sato-san, well enough that he would always seem to find something different or unusual for my cousin and me (two kids who would eat pretty much anything) and was a really friendly guy. He took notice of us because we took notice of him. We were full of questions, and he was full of tricks. Not those silly Benihana kind of tricks, but to a 16 year old who is one of the only non-Japanese in a restaurant, origami critters and strange fish parts served in a creative manner are always interesting.

I’m older now and not so fascinated by origami, however when I get the chance, I always sit at the sushi bar, especially when I know I’ll be back. The itamae will get to know you, will sometimes suggest other items if he thinks what you ordered might not be the best that day, and is often a really interesting person. He knows the food he handles and can be your guide as well as your chef. If you show an interest in his skills he will usually steer you right. Buy him a beer (as I mentioned before). Talk to him. Ask about the special or unusual items (often reserved for the Japanese clientèle who are more familiar with them). But most of all, enjoy your stay at the bar because you might discover things you would otherwise have overlooked.

Warren
The Sushi Guy.

No Comments »