Sushi Otaku

To westerners, the Japanese name for various sushi items can be difficult to remember, but worse even is when terms are used interchangeably or incorrectly. I thought it would be interesting to start a series on clarifying item names (in the vein of my White Tuna – Sushi Confusion piece of yore), providing some insight for sushi fans who may scratch their heads at times over terminology. Or even just for the curious.

Someone was testing my knowledge the other day, firing off the Japanese names for various items from a list they had, and when they got to hirame I replied “Fluke.” Nothing odd about that, hirame is the Japanese term for fluke. But hirame was mislabeled on the sheet as being halibut. Apparently there is nothing odd about that as well, as it turns out that many sushi restaurants mislabel halibut as hirame.

To clear up some of this confusion, I have added to the “sushi item profile” section a combined entry on hirame (Fluke) and ohyo (Halibut) in order to help diners differentiate between the two fish. When two different species are served under the same name in a restaurant, it not only feels disrespectful to the consumer, but it adds to the existing confusion of interpreting foreign names for known fish, in an environment where people should feel comfortable while enjoying a meal.

Fluke (hirame) is a much smaller fish than the Halibut (ohyo). It will also have a firmer texture and will be presented differently due to its smaller size, often as paired, small fillets on top of each piece of rice (shari). Halibut (ohyo) is a much larger fish and is sliced and presented the way any other fish would be, unlike its flat cousin, the Fluke. Seasonal factors come into play as well since fluke is best in the winter months, being less mushy. Of course, simply asking which particular fish is being served is the easiest way of determining what you are eating, however prior to ordering a person might not know what to expect without asking.

For westerners, just trying to remember the appropriate Japanese word for an item is difficult enough, but then trying to discern between all the different types of a fish, combined with mis-labeling, it is more than a little bit confusing. Hopefully now, though, you will know what you are getting when you ask for hirame. For a more detailed look at these two fish and greater insight into the nomenclature and contrast, please read the Hirame and Ohyo section of the sushi item profiles. A fish by any other name would taste so sweet…

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku

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If there is one type of rice that best represents sushi and Japanese culinary arts, it is Koshihikari rice (often called “Koshi rice”). Koshihikari rice is considered a super-premium short grain rice that is unique in its characteristics, with a firmness, consistency, aroma, and a natural sweetness that is without peer in the rice world. Slightly off white, firm yet creamy, this low glycemic rice has attributes that make it perfect for sushi or general consumption, if one is so inclined. Along the same vein as Kobe or Wagyu beef, Koshihikari rice is a type carefully cultivated and milled in Japan, and was traditionally only grown and consumed there, and for a long time, Westerners were not privy to this Japanese luxury. Eventually, word of this incredible rice spread, and while Japan was happy to export milled Koshi rice to the rest of the world, grain that would germinate was kept from export, effectively prohibiting other countries from growing their own Koshihikari rice. In 2003, Japan began to certify Japanese Koshihikari rice with DNA testing, thus ensuring a compliant product marketed with JAS certification. The intent was to keep this rice a Japanese product; however we all know how well that strategy works with any commodity.

In time, this rice still managed to find its way to different parts of the world, and it is now grown in the United States. California and Tennessee are two states that have found success in cultivating Koshi rice, and even though it may not be grown in Japan, the American variety of rice manages to retain many of its qualities that make koshi rice such a unique product. Being grown locally, it is less expensive and more readily available than the Japanese variety.

In Japan, home cooked rice is consumed generally within a few months of processing. Most ‘new crop’ rice is used as is, but depending on the household and perhaps the intended dishes it is not be unusual to blend shinmai (new crop) with komai (old crop). Shinmai tends to be stickier because the rain grains still retain some moisture. This is ideal for serving rice alone. Komai tends to be less sticky because the rice has lost more moisture, and is ideal for dishes like Cha Han (Fried Rice) or Kare Raisu (curry rice) where a person might want each grain to not stick to its neighbor. Additionally, nearly all Sushi restaurants in Japan use komai or some kind of komai blend because as the rice grain dries and loses moisture it develops small hairline cracks on the surface. These cracks permit the Su (vinegar) to be absorbed better. Outside Japan, sushi-ya do not pay as much attention to the blending of rice, but in a country where sushi is relatively new, this has not been of much concern.

Koshi rice is to sushi rice as single malt scotch is to the scotch world. While many consumers may not be aware of, or even concerned with the difference, to those who place more emphasis on the nuances of their food, Koshi rice is a different game. While I personally use Japanese Koshi rice when making sushi at home and trying to impress my friends with my sushi making skills, I have recently had the opportunity to try Koshi rice made by a Tennessee grower, which I will review in another article. While I am a huge fan of the Japanese short grain variety of rice, I don’t intend to sound like a rice snob, and I am happy to eat a bowl of non-Koshi rice that I am served at a sushi-ya. That said, when I am home, crafting my own meal and taking the time to perfect it, I like to have the ultimate rice to make my meal complete.

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku

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I just updated the sushi calories and nutritional information page, making it much cleaner with a tab interface. I added another table with nigiri sushi items as well, so no more back of the envelope calculations for you all. I have also added all the nutritional information I could find about Whole Foods sushi items, which I acquired from their outsourcer, Genji Express. If you are interested in this information, including weight watchers points for all items listed, head on over to that section of the FAQ.

Meshi agare,
Warren
Sushi Otaku

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Eight pacific nations have just banned the fishing of Bigeye and Yellowfin tuna from their territorial waters, in what is one of the largest statements to protect the two species from destruction. The tuna fishing ban is being undertaken by all Parties to the Nauru Agreement (PNA), including the Federated States of Micronesia, Kiribati, Marshall Islands, Nauru, Palau, Papua New Guinea, Solomon Islands and Tuvalu. These nations have now banned fishing in specific areas adjacent to their exclusive economic zones. With a $3 billion pacific fishing industry at stake, they have realized that a temporary ban, to allow stocks to recover, is the only way to save these fish. I can hear the price of tuna sashimi is going up already…

Not all tuna sashimi is Bluefin tuna. Japan is a major importer of Bigeye and Yellowfin tuna and in fact the wholesale price of Bigeye tuna is up 20% in the past three years, and the price of Yellowfin is up 30%, with no end in sight. This recent ban could easily cause prices to rise at an accelerated rate. Approximately 50% of the global tuna catch is from the Pacific Ocean and a majority of that is from the areas around the PNA. High fuel costs are also impacting the fishing industry, and it has gotten so bad it is now estimated that almost 30% of the long line fishing boats may suspend operations due to the prohibitive costs of remaining in operation. The only way to offset these rising costs is to raise the price of fish, which may end up being the saving grace for these fisheries. As prices increase, more sustainable types of fishing are better able to compete, which is a necessity if tuna stocks are to avoid collapse. Since modern fishing techniques were introduced in the 1950’s, the estimated global yellowfin tuna catch has increased from approximately 110,879 tonnes in 1950 to a peak of 1,436,602 tonnes in 2003. In 2006, that number had receded to 1,129,415 tonnes and has somewhat stabilized there for the time being. Without some conservation efforts, that number will continue to go down due to reduces numbers of fish in the ocean. And tuna are not the only fish in danger of over fishing. Ultimately, there is not simple solution to preserving these piscine communities, but with the push for sustainable fishing, acceptance that prices must go up, and the actions of people who avoid destructive fishing practices, we can ensure our supply of sushi and sashimi ingredients in the future.

<begin rant>I almost feel as though I’m turning this blog into an activist channel for the protection of endangered pelagic species. While I do not intend that to be the case, I do feel that it is important to raise this issue as it is important for anyone interested in seafood (and sushi/sashimi in particular) to be aware of these facts. I would be unhappy if my sushi dinners became a prohibitively expensive treat. Or a non-existent one. We need a greater impetus to ensure the survival of our aquatic fare, and the best way to achieve this is to be aware of what you eat, where it came from, and act accordingly. And it never hurts to ask questions.<end rant>

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku

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I’ve had a surprisingly large amount of inquiries over the years to add the nutritional values for Ankimo (monkfish liver) to my Sushi Nutritional Information and Calories page and I’ve finally managed to find that information. I’ve added it to the Sushi Calories and Nutritional Information page and I can’t believe it took me as long as it did.

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku

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I had dinner with Mark Kurlansky last night, author of such amazing books as Cod, Salt, and The Big Oyster: History on the Half Shell. Well, actually, that’s kind of a lie; I snacked while he spoke of his latest work, The Last Fish Tale. He came to the local Community Association in a small town in Connecticut to mingle, chat, and talk about his new book, and while I expected a packed venue, there ended up being about 40 of us attending. I’m sure it had to do with the town being somewhat off the beaten track, if he were to speak in his native New York City

I’m sure he would have packed the halls, but the atmosphere last night was quite causal and even intimate. He was animated and friendly, and eager to discuss anything we wanted, and as the night progressed, talk became more and more interesting.

What began with a reading from his new book turned into a Q&A session afterwards and an informal chat session later in the evening. After a few questions about his new book, and the city of Gloucester, the real protagonist, the topic quickly evolved into a long discussion about the plight of the creatures in our oceans. The toll that modern fishing techniques, equipment and attitudes are taking on the sea is astounding. I have written many times about the plight of the Bluefin Tuna, but many other species such as Cod, Swordfish, the Patagonian Toothfish (Chilean Sea Bass), and even many species of shark are all in gave danger of disappearing from the waters that once sustained them. Pollution, climate changes, and over fishing are all contributing on what seems to be a war against these creatures who are unable to protect themselves from man. It may make people think when many of our sushi items are no longer available, or are so overpriced as to be prohibitive, but the fear will set in when these foods are no longer available at all, and the reverberations are felt throughout our economies and lifestyle. Many lives depend on the sea, and not just those who fish.

Mr. Kurlansky raised a very interesting point last night. While many people have been calling for a boycott of various fish that are in extreme danger, this will punish all fishermen equally and not effectively solve the problem of groups that essentially fish with malice. In order to keep a fish population healthy, a complete ban is not necessary (or even possible), however a strong push towards sustainable fishing will ensure a species survival. Large trawlers will decimate a species, with collateral damage to others, and will quickly empty an area of life. Quotas can be based on incorrect data, or even ignored. Sustainable hook and line fishing, however, will actually ensure that a species won’t be over fished (you just can’t catch enough fish with that method to ruin the population), and will actually produce a better product. If you have ever seen a comparison of a fish caught in a trawler with a fish caught with a hook and line, you would want to eat the hooked fish without question, and you would gladly pay more for the privilege. It sounds easy, but the only way for sustainable fishing to become common practice is if consumers ask for it. Your fishmonger may not know if the fish he sells originates from one source or the other, but if enough people ask, he will start to ask his suppliers. The information will move through the supply chain, and if fishermen begin to realize that consumers will only buy fish caught by sustainable practices, it may start a positive chain of events.

It almost seems like taking a step back technologically, and it is. But it is the only way to preserve the oceans, and if you want to eat your tuna, or mackerel sushi in the future, it is the only way you can ensure it will happen. Seafood may become more expensive, but at least we’ll still have it.

I grew up on the water. If I wasn’t digging clams on the shore of the Atlantic, I was casting a line into a lake in the Eastern Townships of Quebec. I was fishing before could read, and from the beginning, when my cousin helped me put my first worm on a hook and I reeled in a smallmouth bass, I have always had a healthy respect for the fish that was to end up on my plate. As a youth, I never thought much about the plight of the fish that I landed. It was breakfast, lunch, or dinner, and there would be another one tomorrow. I am no longer a child, and have come to realize that I cannot any longer think that way. The only way to ensure the survival of the oceans diversity is to promote sustainable fishing. The easiest way to do this is to simply ask for it.

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku

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I recently added a writeup about Fugu (Puffer Fish) to the FAQ which hopefully provides some insight into why people eat such a potentially deadly dish. I’ve also included some interesting tid-bits about how the poison can be used in other ways, and how a person can actually eat fugu with no fear of being poisoned. Head on over to Sushi Items - Fugu for the whole article.

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku

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At times, the most minor difference can make a tremendous impact; something that may not seem obvious but leaves a tip of the tongue realization. A new restaurant has opened near me and has grown on me quite a bit, but it is easy to know why. It is a seemingly small difference, however it shows that the itamae has an understanding of sushi that is often lacking in many sushi-ya. A good sushi restaurant is made not just by the freshness or the fish, or the value of the offerings, but also the little things that illustrate the care and understanding of those who provide your meal.

Sushi has always been about more than how fresh the fish is, how it is presented, the attentiveness of the wait staff, etc. But often people miss out on the actual creation of the food items. I’m obsessed with food and tend to be nosy. I am not at all uncomfortable wandering over to the itamae to watch the food preparation and discuss technique. I stare, I study, and I ponder (and silently critique). But I’m friendly and at least so far, no one has shooed me away. One particular thing I have noticed is the preparation of maki (cut rolls). A smart restaurant will do it’s best to reduce waste without sacrificing quality. For this reason, it is a very common practice at Japanese restaurants to prepare blocks of maguro (tuna) for sushi and sashimi, and they scrape and chop the trimmings for use in certain rolls. No one really notices that this is the cast offs and remainders that are being used as they are often mixed with spicy mayonnaise or panko (crunchy Japanese bread crumbs) and rolled up. It makes sense to not waste the meat, and I do not begrudge anyone for doing this.

Here comes the “but.” For me, food is about more than taste and presentation. Food is also about texture. I enjoy the feel of different food items, and when I eat a roll, I enjoy the feel of the meat in the roll. I eat a fair quantity of hamachi (yellowtail). Hamachi maki finds its way onto my plate at almost every sushi meal, and more often that not, it has been macerated prior to inclusion in the roll. To me, it becomes one big mushy pile, no matter how nice it may taste. I greatly value the practice of cutting a piece of hamachi and leaving it intact in the roll, which provides definition and a sense of variety while I eat. There are times when I specifically ask the itamae to leave the fish whole in a roll, it is that important to me (ok, I’m more than just a wasabi snob). Without this contrast, I do not find maki nearly as interesting.

While I believe the practice of including the trimmings in rolls should continue, as it reduces waste, I appreciate the itamae who takes the extra step and realizes that the texture of the meal is as important as quality and presentation. With many sushi chefs having less and less formal training these days, I feel that this perspective is becoming lost. Sushi is more than food, it is art. It is not black and white photography; it is full color, vibrant and nuanced. I do not walk in to a Japanese restaurant and start issuing commands, I am a polite diner, and while I may make my wishes gently known, I can appreciate when a chef has the presence of mind to understand the importance of his work. It is a very small gesture, but one with great ramifications. At least, great ramifications for me.

Meshi agare!
Warren
Sushi Otaku

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While I prefer to post fascinating tidbits of piscatory goings-on, I wanted to mention to everyone that Wasabi, the SushiFAQ forum, is back in action. After an onslaught of spam (Close Encounters of the Nasty Kind) the cleanup effort caused a minor (OK, major) explosion in the database and all posts have been lost due to corruption. Yet we persevere! We are now back up with a newer look and I encourage everyone to register at Wasabi - The SushiFAQ Chat Board and start discussing our favorite food, sushi! I’m often around and ready to answer any questions that I can, and there are plenty of other folks who hang about and are quite knowledgeable as well. Please join us, regale us with your wit, and talk fish.

Meshi agare!
Warren
The sushi guy

1 Comment »

Sushi has been a popular item in the west for a few decades now and as with anything that makes its way across cultures, it has readily changed to better match western palates. But unlike noodles and soybeans, sushi has not merely changed to fit our preferences; it has begun to shape how we view our foods in the west as well. Recently, I have seen what I believe to be the pinnacle of intrusion, the actual supplanting of traditional western food culture with an Eastern import, in an unlikely place. And due to this, sushi has become more than, or perhaps less than, just sushi, and I am not yet sure what this might mean. Allow me to elaborate…

I was at an Italian restaurant the other evening with friends, a rather upscale establishment started by a well-known celebrity chef (since New York needs more of these restaurants). Looking for great seafood and not having eaten there yet, it was a perfect choice to meet, and we were all eager to try it out. The menu was enticing, varied, and upon reflection, strange. The appetizer list had a section of raw fish, some ceviche style, and some purely raw, but some of the items were not listed by their Italian names (what I expected) nor their English names (what I also would have expected), but by their Japanese names. I ended up ordering hamachi sashimi in a somewhat upscale Italian restaurant, and it became one of many sushi items I had that evening. The fish was not sliced in the same manner as sushi would be, nor was it the same cut (portion) of the fish that is normally used to make sushi/sashimi. It was also not served in the manner of sushi or sashimi. Yet it was labeled as such. It was quite tasty, but I cannot fathom why they would list it as hamachi instead of yellowtail. It seemed odd to find an item referred to in the third party language without context in an Italian restaurant.

When Italian restaurants list items under their Japanese names, and sushi is available at 7-11 stores, I start to wonder what has changed. While there is certainly no rule that sushi and sashimi must remain in a Japanese restaurant, and that the terms be restricted to such use, it seems more than out of place to find such a dish, and the use of the terminology, in such surprising places. When something has become so pervasive that it can no longer be separated from its counterparts, I question one’s ability to define it. It dilutes the brand, and shows how pervasive it has become that it has jumped from exotic, to mainstream, and then possibly to boring. That said, there is nothing uninspiring about a lengthy and adventurous dinner at Sushi Yasuda in New York, yet still, perhaps, when a once exotic food has so ingrained itself in another culture it becomes something different entirely. Something that only in name retains its roots. What that thing is though is to me uncertain as becomes easy to lose the qualities that make it exotic fare.

We need the great traditional Japanese restaurants such as Sushi Yasuda, and the impressive sushi works of Nobu to keep the art and evolution of good sushi and sashimi ever present in our cultural palate. We need reminders that what to westerners is exotic fare can evolve and remain such, and hopefully there will be no need to lament what sushi has become. Some foods and cultures mix exceptionally well, such as the infusion of French culinary culture into traditional Vietnamese cooking. But a melange can only go so far before it leaves the realm of fusion and becomes pedestrian. My final feeling that we have reached the point of no return will be when I see, in the glass window next to the garish clown, a poster for the new McMaki with cheese.

Meshi agare!
Warren
The sushi guy

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